The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.

"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce wine from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on

Kristen Sutton
Kristen Sutton

Lena is a seasoned journalist with a passion for storytelling and uncovering the truth behind the headlines.